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MA They sleep in separate bedrooms.e. an aromatic broth containing Japanese ale Chinese five-spice and tomatillo chiliesThat old standby tuna tartare benefits from a fresh presentation; the dressed raw tuna arrives on a bed of avocado-jalapeno mousse alongside a salad of shiso and compressed watermelon and curly chicharron-style crisps made entirely of rice flour And my hands-down favorite starter is a stack of Korean pancakes (bin dae duk) topped with caramelized kimchi braised pork belly and a sunnyside-up quail egg dressed with black-garlic aioli Served four to a portion this dish should be on every table in the restaurantFish plays a major role among the main courses A trio of massive prawns highlights a Singapore noodles dish though pieces of barbecued pork and lap cheung sausage make the dish sing (and I'm just scratching the surface of that complex creation) Grilled swordfish in miso-mustard sauce is a hit as is Maryland striped bass with a bit of coconut broth The bouillabaisse is a star albeit a relatively hot one a bounty of shellfish and cod in a broth laced with gochujang (a spicy chile and fermented soybean paste) and served with grilled bread slathered with peppery rouilleI like the elk loin with kabocha squash and pickled blueberries though this dish is probably headed for a spring makeover Braised short ribs smothered in house-made Thai-style curry sauce with basil-potato puree is likely to stay on the menu for quite a while longer as it was the dish Kim used to win one of the "Top Chef" challengesPortions are such that side dishes aren't necessary but if you're indulging get the crispy Brussels sprouts ably abetted by kimchi and pork belly And I'd be remiss if I neglected to mention the excellent naan served with a trio of traditional sauces that arrives unbidden to start every mealPastry chef Erin Brew contributes some very pretty desserts including a coconut panna cotta with carrot-ginger consomme sake-soaked raisins and a crisp carrot-cake tuile on top; and a martini glass filled with honey-chile granita coconut sorbet and a fig-walnut cookie Green-tea ice cream makes a nice foil for a Valrhona-chocolate pot de creme topped with crispy "pocky" (peppercorn-laced crisps modeled after a popular Japanese snack food) and my favorite a soothing chocolate-caramel mousse with tamarind caramel is matched to an outrageously delicious smoked-almond ice creamAria's servers seem pretty sharp unaffectedly conversant with Kim's complex dishes and full of good humor and charm Wine service is troublesome; an ordered bottle took an inordinately long time to arrive and when it did the white wine was scarcely below room temperature I assumed the delay was due to the staff's frantic attempts to chill the wine on the fly but when I later ordered a red the food for which the wine was ordered was at the table long before the bottle showed up "The wine will be here in a minute" promised our waiter when the bottle in question was in full view of our table standing forlornly at a service stationOn another visit we were greeted — well acknowledged — by an unsmiling hostess who informed us that our table wasn't ready Anticipating a short delay we headed for the lounge (a very comfortable space by the way) but 30 minutes later after griping to a cocktail waitress we were told there were still "several tables ahead of you" as though that whole reservations thing merely granted us a place in line Further protests earned us a round of drinks and we were eventually seated — nearly an hour past the original reserved time — with neither explanation nor apologyRestaurants in which most entrees exceed $30 should know better and/or be staffed better Aria needs to operate at a higher level Kim ought to demand itWatch Phil Vettel's reviews weekends on WGN-Ch 9's "News at Nine" CLTV and at Aria200 N Columbus Drive; 312-444-9494; Tribune rating: Two starsOpen: Breakfast lunch dinner Monday-SundayEntree prices: $26-$39Credit cards: A DC DS M V perfectly traditional but for the cognac lurking in the hoisin sauce, intimate holiday shows that features lovely music, nowadays,Nike Air Max 2012 homme, Brady could certainly use another big target beyond Rob Gronkowski, Michael Jordan.036 +0.6100 0.
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